Showing posts with label Cigar Box. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cigar Box. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 13, 2017

Making a Cigar Box Amp

First things first:
  • I don't play guitar.
  • I didn't build the electronics or understand how they work.
  • I didn't solder a single connection on this.
  • I didn't build the "cabinet."
  • I didn't even smoke the cigars that came in the box.
  • I know... I know...it's not a toy and this is a toy making site.
But other than that, I made it!


So this project started about 4 years ago when I was talking to one of the more clever freshwater crustaceans I've ever met - Crawfish his-self over at Crawls Backward When Alarmed.

Among his many talents, he plays guitars and builds and fixes amps (and SAABs.) I had suggested that if he made the innards for an amp, I'd try and make a vintage looking radio cabinet to house it in (like a Tombstone or Cathedral style table top radio from the 1930's.)

He very generously put together his version of an amp called "The Noisy Cricket" and dropped it off with me to do my bit. Details on his build can be found here and here.

His final assembly and the original chassis can be found here.

So, if you have any questions about any wires, inputs, electrical thingies or the sounds this project creates, please check out his site.

Like far too many of my projects without deadlines, the Noisy Cricket (aka Crawfish Instruments Model 386) sat on a shelf for a couple of years. That is until Mrs Toy Making Dad's birthday rolled around this year. She has an acoustic/electric guitar but no amp and a husband who likes making stuff. Seems like a no brainer.

So I opened up the Noisy Cricket and started taking inventory of what needed to go where. When I realized how small the components were and the fact that I wasn't going to re-solder any connections, I decided that the box could be pretty small. Then it occurred to me (and a zillion other amp DIYers on the web) to use a cigar box as the chassis.

My local beer/wine super store sells empty cigar boxes for $.50 a piece. Crazy huh? I always check the shelf to see what I can find and honestly, I've gotten some real gems there. I've made several "Shut The Box" games out of them and use them for all sorts of classy storage around the shop.



I looked for a box the speaker would fit in and then worked back from there. I found this neat ONYX box. I couldn't make a box half as solid for 20 times the cost.

It just needed some stickers removed and some superfluous wood lining taken out. (I needed the walls to be thin enough for the various switches to fit through.)





Next up, a trusty grade school "quality" compass to draw the circle out for the speaker. (That is a tool I really need to upgrade at some point. What will the editors at Better Homes and Toy Making say if they ever drop by?) I drilled a pilot whole in it and then used a coping saw since I couldn't use my scroll saw on the box lid. (It won't open flat while still attached to the rest of the box, but I could deal with that on a workbench.)


This is it after I finished. Although I gotta be honest, I pretty much butchered it with the coping saw. It looked bad until I cleaned up the circle with a drum sander attachment on my rotary tool. Just need to be patient, take little cuts and cut to the line.






As an aside, I have a circle cutter that I inherited from my parents. I was going to use that but when I put it in the drill press, I found that the shaft was bent and the experiment turned pretty scary pretty fast. However, note the $.50 cigar box holding all of my parents' Allen wrenches. Were they collectors and they just never told me?


So the next part was to line up the connecting nuts and bolts and drill those holes to anchor the speaker to the box. That then let me see exactly how much space I had to arrange my connectors and nobs without the speaker hitting them. (I had gotten a pretty good idea before I started but you never really know until you start cutting stuff up.)




So this amp is powered by a 9v battery or a DC "wall wort" power supply of similar voltage. The battery needed to be on the bottom of the chassis so as not to dangle. I then drilled the holes for the guitar cord input and the speaker out jack along with the external power connector. I put these down the side of the box with the hinges. I countersunk the holes using a Forstner bit so I could get sockets around the retaining nuts.



The top of the amp has the On/Off switch, a power indicator LED, Volume, Tone and Gain controls. I lined these holes up so that they would look centered with the lid closed.








The base of the On/Off switch required me to chisel a little inset on the inside of the box so he top would fit through. The countersinks on top were to allow for the volume, tone and gain knobs to fit in there just right. Once again, I used a Forstner bit for that.






Well, as often happens when you are clueless, I managed to disconnect a wire or two and had no idea how to fix it. For example, this do-dad came disconnected from the board thingie and if I was gonna use a melty stick on it, I figured I should actually know where it was supposed to go. (Sorry for all the technical jargon.) So, I popped into my exceedingly sensible vehicle and paid a visit to Crawfish's Electronic Dungeon for the final touches.


He got to work replacing the speaker with an upgraded one he had recently acquired and wanted to test and grabbed a schematic to see where the do-dad was supposed to connect to the thingie. He heated up the melty stick and a few puffs of mostly non-toxic smoke later, we was in business.





We switched out the blue knobs for these grey ones and he added a battery clamp and some Velcro to hold down the board. Basically, the only time it will ever be opened will be to replace the battery so we didn't make any efforts at wire management.



As they say.. the proof is in the playing.

Since I can't play, Crawfish gave it a test :




And he worked out the Kinks...




Anyway, not something I could have done on my own, but something that I think most people could do with a few drill bits, a box ,some patience and a buddy who knows what the heck he is doing.






Saturday, May 31, 2014

Making a Shut the Box Game with a Cigar Box

In short - "Shut the Box" is a very old counting game that is part strategy part luck. Honestly though, mostly luck so it is a great game for kids to play against an adult. Super easy and fast to play, it can even be played solo. It does help kids with quick addition skills and the game only takes a few minutes and stores in its own box. It is used as a bar/pub game in some parts of the world. Fun for all ages, as they say.

First off, I don't smoke but I like cigar boxes and wanted to use one for this project. No doubt the fine folks at "Overly Sensitive Parenting Quarterly" will freak out at the use of a cigar box for a toy but, hey... I could have used the box to make a "Cigar Box Guitar" and then those crazy kids would just use it to make rock and roll music and who knows what that could lead to.

So instead, I'll do the world a favor and make a counting game with it.

Clearly the Normans took their games
 pretty seriously
The game itself may have been played back as far as the 12th century. It seems to have Norman origins but it is now played all over the world. I was first exposed to it through a TV game show in the 1970s called "High Rollers" hosted by a pre-Jeopardy Alex Trebek. The man had incredible hair.

The game is traditionally played in some sort of a box. I'll explain in more detail later exactly how to play but basically, you have tiles numbered 1 through 9 and you roll dice. Add up what you rolled on the dice and knock down an equal sum from the tiles. Keep doing this until you roll a number you can't match or you knock down all the tiles. Knocking them all down is called "Shutting the box" and you automatically win if you do that. Period. Game over. DONE!

So, first things first... I need a box.

A few months ago I popped by the local mega beer/wine store in search of cigar boxes... honest. That's my story and I'm sticking with it. (BTY - They also sell their empty wooden wine crates. Noted for future dinosaur builds.) Anyway, I lucked out. Someone had asked for a bunch of wooden cigar boxes to be set aside and then never showed up to claim them. Right place, right time for me and I got them for 50 cents apiece! YEA ME!

Mrs Toy Making Dad claimed
two as soon as I got home

Some now hold bits and Allen wrenches
in my work space

I had some leftover red oak from another project so I cut out the tiles from that stock.
These ended up being 1 7/8" tall by 3/" wide and 3/8" thick. Obviously, these can be pretty much any size you want as long as they will fit in the box and are thick enough to rotate on the dowel or rod you use as the axle.

I rounded the tops into little tombstone shapes using the disk sander on my belt sander. I wrote little numbers on the bottom in the hopes of keeping them in order but a) that really didn't matter and b) after I put the finish on the tiles, I couldn't read the numbers anyway (D'oh!)

The next step was to drill the pivot holes. The holes are 3/16" so that a 1/8" dowel can be used for them to pivot over. I made a quick jig and attached it to my drill press. Having the pivot hole in a consistent location makes the tiles line up level. Also, it's critical that the hole be perpendicular to the tile so that the tiles will lie flat when they are knocked down.

Before

After (Pretty exciting, huh?)

After drilling all the holes I applied a finish and after it dried some pre-cut craft store number. The kind used to label school projects and posters. The finish was a coat of bee's wax and mineral oil that my little one and I had whipped up a few weeks ago for a different project. I know it isn't an indestructible finish, but WOW, it is sooooo easy to use. Non-toxic, no fumes, no gloves, dries super fast. It even has a slight honey smell to it. It is an absolute joy to work with.

I selected the Gispert Robusto box because it was very solid, had the right look and I could make it work with the dimensions I needed. It was also close at hand and not full of Allen wrenches.

I decided on two 1/8" wood dowels for the game. One for the tiles to pivot on and one to act as a ledge/stop when the tiles are knocked down. They make a satisfying "clack" when you tip them down and they hit the bar. The box walls are less than 1/2" thick so I decided to just drill straight through them and glue the dowels in place. I made sure the tiles had room to move, would rest upright and would hit the bar when knocked down. Again, consistency is key here. I need both bars to be level. The bar is a 7/8" lower and 1" forward of the axle dowel.

In using my drill press I found that the table of the press couldn't go low enough to allow me to drill the 1/8" holes in the box. When I moved the table out of the way, then the box was too low. I found that the perfect spacer I had sitting around was of all things, a Price Albert tobacco can! No... I don't smoke. It was from my grandfather's basement.

And no, I don't have Prince Albert in a can. Therefore I don't need to let him out.

So, here's this post's history lesson. The "Prince Albert" on the can was the eldest son of Queen Victoria. his full name being Albert Edward. When he became King in 1902 he chose to go by "Edward VII". He was King of England for eight years, was very popular and from his name we get the term "Edwardian Era."  He was related to a very large percentage of European royalty at the time (some say nearly all) and in fact, both the Kaiser and Tsar who were to clash so disastrously in WW1 were his nephews (the Tsar by marriage.) His son was George V, King of England during WW1. And yes... he is the King Edward of "King Edward Cigars" which I've had some adventures with over the years but won't go into now.

And no... I don't smoke!


Final assembly was threading the axle dowel through one hole, placing a spacer (in this case a small wood wheel), the numbers in sequence and then another spacer. The dowel was glued into place and then so was the stop bar. Last thing, I glued a little green felt on to the inside of the lid so that there was a soft rolling surface for the dice. (BTY - Dollar Store - 10 dice for $1) Total time was just a couple of hours. I built and played with it in the same day. If only all the projects were so easy :)



And now for us visual learners...

How to Play Shut the Box

As should be expected, there are all sorts of variations on the game but basically there are tiles numbered 1 through 9 (or up to 12) in a box or on a playing surface. The first player takes a die or pair of dice and rolls them. The player then chooses which tiles to knock down so that the sum of the knocked down tiles equals the sum of what was rolled. You keep rolling until you roll a number whose sum you can't match with the tiles.

For example... Say I rolled a 9.

I could then knock down any of the following

















I then roll again and keep knocking down numbers.
When I roll a number but can't knock anything down, my turn is over.
Then the values on the remaining tiles are totaled up and that is my score and it is the next players turn after all the numbers have been turned upright again.
If I was are able to knock down all of the tiles, I have "Shut the Box" and win the game at that point even without the other person getting a "fair up."

You can play to a certain number - say first person to 50 loses.
Or you can just do each round - low score wins.

Or you can play like my daughter and I like to play where you go until you can't turn down any numbers and when it is the next player's turn, they pick up where the other person left off.
No tiles are ever turned upright and you just keep going until someone "Shuts the Box."

Two good optional rules we use are -
1) Once the 7, 8 and 9 have been knocked down, you can choose to roll just one die.
2) ANYTIME you roll a double you get to go again, even if you couldn't match the sum.

Remember - As soon as someone Shuts the Box, he or she has won. End of game.

But that's okay.

Just play another one... or two... or ten.







Just Saying...

While we don’t necessarily need more objects, we just might benefit from more making.
- John Dunnigan

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Regular guy who likes to make stuff who lives with a very patient wife, three daughters and three cats.