A few months ago I made a toy British WW1 tank that was a big hit with the kid it was a present for. However, Toy Making Dad is haunted by the bittersweet vision of a kid having to play with a toy tank with no enemy tank to fight against. Seriously, where is the fun in making "PUUURCH!" noises from the main guns without something for them to "BLAMMM!" against on the other side? So, an adversary is in order and the only German designed tank to see action in WW1, the Sturmpanzer-Kraftwagen A7V, is the obvious choice.
First, a couple of quick historical notes (because my rule is that I get to use my BA in History once a month no matter what.) The British and French both made thousands of tanks in WW1 but for a lot of reasons the Germans did not. Building these tanks represented a ton (hehehe a tank joke) of effort and resources for what was seen as minimal gain. The tanks of the time were also mechanically unreliable and far from the fast moving seemingly indestructible beasts that are in everyone's minds now. The Germans only built around 20 A7Vs during the war and actually used far more captured British tanks that had broken down or had been knocked out and repaired.
So, I could make another British tank and paint it like the Germans did. Okay, that would be sorta fun. However, it wouldn't advance the science of making toy tanks out of 2x3s, wine crates and clementine boxes, now would it?
Okay, while the British tanks of WW1 have that "land battleship" vibe about them, the A7V has the all too familiar "The barn just came to life, sprouted half a dozen machine guns and is crawling down the street" look. A thing of beauty it is not but it does have its fine points. Chief among them is that it positively bristles with guns. There are six of the German version of Maxim machine guns, two on each side and two in the rear. The main gun is a captured 57mm gun in the front of the tank. Those cannons had been captured from the Belgians and Russians earlier in the war and used as anti-tank guns as well as the main armament of the A7V.
So, some things to keep in mind before I start designing and building:
It is a toy, not a scale model. I want to keep it simple and relatively easy to build. (Which also means easy to repair. It will probably see some rough play.)
I want to keep it close to the scale of the British tank.
The guns are the center point of this toy and we need to come up with a way where all are present and can move in some sort of way
A clacking noise as it is pushed would be nice.
(One other note. I had sketched out numerous ideas for this toy before I started but once I started making saw dust, different and better ways to get the same result became obvious. So, not all the pictures will exactly match "the order of assembly" that the toy will ultimately have when I build new ones, but it is what it is; a proof of concept.)
Just like I did for the British tank, I grabbed a plan for the A7V from The-Blueprints.com and sized it to scale in PowerPoint. Looking at the true dimensions of the tank, it should end up a little taller and not quite as long or wide as the British one. The British tanks is about 8 1/2" long so to match the scale my German tank needs to be about 7" long.
I'm using a 2x3 as the "hull" of my toy. It will be the center of the toy with everything attached to it in some manner. When the toy is finished, very little of the hull will actually show. The front and back of the tank will be about 1/2" thick so that leaves six inches for the hull. I traced the pattern on the block and marked the machine gun locations. The hull is taller than it needs to be here. Ultimately it will only be 1 5/8" from its highest point to the bottom. The cupola will be added later.
I marked out the locations for the main gun and each of the machine guns based on the pattern. I used a 1/2" forstner bit for the machine guns and a 3/4" one for the main gun. I made sure that I cut the holes to be deep enough so that they can securely hold a dowel the same diameter that will serve as the swivel for the guns. (Trust me; it will make sense in a minute.)
I'm finally getting smart about these things and have realized that it makes sense to work on a couple of toys of the same kind at the same time. Most of the time in toy making is spent in setting up cuts as opposed to actually making the cuts. Here are two hulls (creatively labeled "1" and "2") with their top holes drilled. Hull #1 already has the front and back slope cut. Honestly, I jumped the gun (so to speak) on that one and could have waited until the next step was done.
In another live and learn moment, I cut a 10 degree bevel along both sides of the top of the hull before drilling the side holes that will allow the guns to stick out. The bevel is so that the armor sides will hang at the proper angle and give the tank the correct shape. Not really a problem, but next time, I'll drill the holes first. These holes are the same diameter as the as their respective gun mount dowels and are centered on where the guns will poke through the armor plate sides.
The next steps are easy. Just pop a dowel of the appropriate width into the opening and mark where the gun should be centered and where the top of the dowel needs to be cut so that it will not protrude above the top of the hull. Before you cut the dowel to length, drill a hole into it that will hold the dowel that will be the guns. (I used 3/16" for the machine guns and 1/4" for the main gun.)
Don't worry about the angle, just cut the dowel flat at the lowest point.
Yes, the jig is made from the corners of a clementine box.
This is just a test fitting and the guns are not cut to length. Still, you get the idea that all seven guns will be able to move independently.
So I have my idea, a Spinosaurus toy. Now, what? Well, I came up with a list of what I want him to do.
1) He is a biped, so I want his legs to be jointed and move on wheels just like the other dinosaurs.
2) His sail has to move like the dimetrodon toy but with a more horizontal than vertical motion.
3) His mouth has to open and close as he is moved. (He's a carnivore and needs to be at least semi-menacing.)
4) I think I want to make his arms move on their own.
5) I want him to be able to write an opera and sing the soprano parts.
I realize that this will be fairly complicated, so I really can't just wing it. (A Pterodactyl though, that I could wing.)
So I start doodling some ideas in various notebooks. Just trying to get the ideas down and a general plan. As dimensions come to mind I make quick notations and hope that I will be able to read my own handwriting once the time comes. (Note the similarity to Da Vinci's notebooks.)
It doesn't take long to get the general plan set. Having built a dozen on the dinosaurs from "Making Toy Dinosaurs in Wood", I know that they are a fair amount of work and I really don't want to start down a path that results in failure. So, a proof of concept model is in order.
I took an old piece of shelving that I use to prevent splintering when I drill through other pieces and got to work. The power is going to be provided by a cam on an axle between two wheels so as long as I have that running I should be able test everything out. (Well everything except the opera bit, but I can work on that later.)
I know, not very dinosaur like, but that isn't the point right now. This is how it should work:
As the cam spins, the push rod will push the sail out to the right.
The jaw of the dinosaur's mouth will be attached to the top of the sail.
As the sail moves, the mouth with open.
The dowel through the jaw will then push down on a lever that moves the dinosaur's arms up and down.
Here it is all covered up and with the arm attached. No need to make the legs yet. I'm fairly confident that I can work on the math of them when the time comes.
So one day, about six or eight years ago, I came across this book with an amazingly specific title at my public library. Making Dinosaur Toys in Wood by David Wakefield. Here were decidedly wicked cool toys that just looked "right." All of them have neat actions built into their designs and the plans and instructions were very clear. However, they also appeared to require accuracy and precision that I felt were beyond my skills. I checked it out and soon convinced myself that it was in fact, out of my league. (In retrospect, I didn't lack the necessary skills. What I was lacking was the confidence that only comes from experience.)
Then a couple of years later I found myself driving back from the beach with three kids and two drill presses in the back of the van (yeah... it's sort of a long story... I'll save it for some other time..) I was uncharacteristically quiet for quite a stretch as I contemplated the world of drill pressing that awaited me. I remember saying to my wife, "You know, I bet you I could build one of those dinosaurs now." She gave me a very supportive smile that said, "I love you... even though you are a 12 year old boy."
So to make a short story long, that Christmas I started work on the mini Stegosaurus from the book as a gift for my youngest daughter. My "workshop" is not at my house and I remember coming home very late after having finished all the rough cuts. I taped the body parts and lightly tacked in the nails and at about 1:00 in the morning, three or four days before Christmas, I gave him (her?) a try. I was so happy it worked I shot this quick video to prove it did work just in case I'd been lucky and could never get it back together again.
So, since then, I've made twelve dinosaurs using six of Mr Wakefield's designs for my kids and as gifts for friends and teachers. People really like them and are always surprised when I say that I made them following plans in a book.
So I get a lot of "You really should sell these." types of comments. Well, no, I shouldn't. They are not my designs. It would be wrong. Although I do a couple of things differently and I paint them to make them more "toy-like" (andto hide the printing on various wine crates and clementine boxes... just saying), the success of these toys comes directly from Mr Wakefield's fantastic designs. Or more specifically, Mr Wakefield's fantastic copyrighted designs. (Find a copy of his book and buy it. He has several other toymaking books you'll want to pick up as well.)
Here are photos and brief descriptions of some of Mr Wakefield's dinosaurs that I've completed so far.
I just finished up a dimetrodon a couple of days ago and I've been kicking around a few ideas on species not covered in Making Dinosaur Toys in Wood. So, I've decided to explore some uncharted territory and create my own toy dinosaur design and show how to build it.
I've decided to make a Spinosaurus. (image copyright N. Tamura) This creature was not one of my "Marx" plastic dinosaurs I had growing up, so he wasn't on my radar until fairly recently. He also apparently plays a big role in Jurassic Park III but I haven't caught up with that one yet. (Hey, it has only been out for nine years...)
Okay, so why make him/her? Let me count the ways:
He has a unique head and mouth. Sorta like a crocodile.
He is a carnivore. Carnivores are more fun than those preachy herbivores.
He has a spiny sail down his back, sorta like on a dimetrodon.
Although I'll have to make him a "tail dragger", I think he still be a toy that a kid can recognize as an actual type of dinosaur.
I saw my first Jacob's Ladder when I was in the 2nd Grade. I was fascinated as it looked like one block of wood was tumbling down through the others to the bottom. The fact that you could do it again and again without reloading or resetting it in any way was just amazing. It seems like an illusion or a Junior Jedi mind trick, but it really has to do with each piece being doubled hinged. As with most classic folk toys, it is pretty simple to make from some easy to find materials.
Without writing a book, just a couple of historical notes: First off, the name Jacob's Ladder is a Bible reference. In the Book of Genesis, Jacob had a dream where he could see Angels ascending and descending a ladder between Heaven and Earth. The phrase has been used for all sorts of things over the years from rope ladders on ships to plants to this wicked cool toy. Secondly, as to stories that it was found in King Tut's Tomb and was one of the only toys Puritan children were allowed to play with on Sundays... well, I think those are good stories and let's just leave it at that.
I first saw how to build one of these in John R. Nelson, Jr's fantastic book American Folk Toys. Over time, I've changed it a bit to match my tastes and what materials I have on hand or have been given (- thanks Jeff) but that doesn't take anything away from the Mr Nelson's indispensable classic.
I started by ripping 2" wide strips of 5/16" thick wine crate wood. (I know, 5/16"??!! Well, it is probably metric and is "actually" 8mm thick.) Nelson's plans call for 3/8" thick wood and I have often used 1/4" because it is so easy to find. Basically, anything in that range is going to work for you. And oh yeah, if have a bandsaw but don't have a rip fence... go out and get yourself one. You'll thank me later.
Next crosscut your 2" wide strips into 3 1/2" lengths. You'll need six of these. Although you could make it longer, don't forget kids will be playing with this and you don't want to make it too heavy or unwieldy. Sand any rough spots.
Okay, let's start building. Put your first piece down and then take three strips of 2' long by 1/2" wide bias tape. It is used in sewing and is easy to find at any fabric or craft store. I like using different colors for the tape on this. You could also use sturdy cloth ribbon if you prefer. The green tapes run left to right (you can see the starting ends hanging over the side); the white tape runs right to left (it has its starting end hanging over the right side. You can see that better in the next photo.)
Next place a block over top of the first block. This will sandwich the tapes between the two blocks.
Pull the tapes back across the second block. The white tape now runs left to right and the green tapes right to left. Now just alternate adding blocks and loosely weaving the tapes back and forth in the same manner until you add your last block. When you get to the last block, don't wrap the ribbons across the face of the block, just leave enough for the tapes to hang over the edges, just like with your first block.
With all the blocks in place and the ribbons laced through the toy, clamp the block together so that it will be easy to work with. This will help keep everything lined up properly for the next step. (The other side of the block has the exact opposite pattern of ribbons.)
I use 1/2" long little nails to secure the tapes to the ends of the block. Two nails for each ribbon. Brass/Zinc nails with a little rounded head work well and look nice. Stay away from headless brads though. (Headless Brad? Wasn't he a character in an 80's slasher movie?) If a nail gives you a tough time and won't go in straight, take it out and try a different one. Also, once you have a nail lined up and started, don't be afraid to sink it with a few firm hits rather than trying to gently tap it in. You are more likely to bend a nail with a lot of little taps.
Other times I've built this toy (especially when I used 1/4" wood) I've marked and pre-drilled very small pilot holes in the ends of the wood before I threaded the bias tape. You can do that, but trying to line up the little nails through the tape and into the holes wasn't a huge advantage over just putting the nails in directly. The nails are so tiny, I haven't had any issues with the wood splitting. Just be sure to keep them clear of the edges as you nail them in.
After you finish all 36 nails, trim off the excess ribbon and you are all set.
Playing with the toy is very simple. Just hold the long sides of one of the blocks and let the rest of the blocks hang down. Now rotate your hand down on the side that has ribbon showing. The next block will seem to tumble away. Now just rotate your hand back the other direction and the tumbling action will happen again.
With a little bit of practice you can get two blocks cascading at the same time. Which looks pretty neat.
I've left most of mine in natural wood but you can also paint them in bright colors and give them a protective finish. You can make one of these in under an hour. They make great gift and they really last. I made my first one almost 10 years ago and it is still going strong.
Growing up in the DC area, I used to spend a fair amount of my time watching Channel 20. By "fair", I pretty much mean every waking moment.
Afternoons, in between Captain 20's gerbil races and "Banana Splits" episodes, Channel 20 would run Jhoon Rhee commercials and some odd little 30 second to 1 minute long "how to" films for kids. One of them that really stuck with me was "The Spooldozer."
Maybe it was that I still had "Killdozer" on the brain, but something about the Spooldozer spot really grabbed me. Basically, it is just an old folk toy that usually gets called a "Spool Racer" or a "Spool Tractor." There are a lot of variations of this simple toy and it really only takes a minute to put together. So let's make one.
You'll need A wooden spool A rubber band A push pin A short piece of dowel or a pencil A washer or any small disk to sit between the dowel and the spool.
Thread one end of the rubber band through the hole in the center of the spool. I find that using an un-bent (de-bent? re-bent? un-bendified?) paperclip with the end as a hook works well. Just fish it through and pull the edge of the rubber band through. Secure it with the push pin.
Now, working on the other side of the spool, thread the rubber band through the washer (in this case a 1" toy wheel I happened to have around) and then over the dowel. The washer can be made of anything and greatly reduces friction.
I used a 4 1/2" piece of 3/16" dowel, but you could use anything from a pencil to a chopstick for this. Have the front of the stick be about flush with the front of the spool.
So here is the finished push pin side:
The finished washer/lever side.
The completed Spooldozer
Now here is the scary part... you're done. Seriously, it is time to start playing with it. Just wind the dowel clockwise a few dozen times until it starts to get tight and then set it down and let it go.
Now a few things to keep in mind (and dare I say... ponder...)
The weight and length of the dowel/pencil will impact how fast and straight the toy will run.
It gets better traction on carpet than wood. On wood it tends to spin in place if it has wound up too much. (No doubt there is a physics lesson in here somewhere...)
Small rubber bands can be placed around the ends of the spool to improve traction.
Remember though, kids don't mind if it spins out and acts all crazy. It is a toy.
So there you go. About as simple as it gets.
You know... maybe this is too simple. A wise crustacean I used to work with operated under a guiding principle that stated -"Why make it simple, when you can make it complex."
Let's just say, with a little bit of wood from, ummm, maybe a clementine box, and a lot of time, a more complicated version can be made. However, that is for a different day and a separate posting.
A few months ago I made a toy British WW1 tank that was a big hit with the kid it was a present for. However, Toy Making Dad is haunted by the bittersweet vision of a kid having to play with a toy tank with no enemy tank to fight against. Seriously, where is the fun in making "PUUURCH!" noises from the main guns without something for them to "BLAMMM!" against on the other side? So, an adversary is in order and the only German designed tank to see action in WW1, the Sturmpanzer-Kraftwagen A7V, is the obvious choice.
", I know that they are a fair amount of work and I really don't want to start down a path that results in failure. So, a proof of concept model is in order.
